Seaside at the Amalfi Coast

We traveled by train from Tuscana to Napoli which was quick and fairly comfortable. When arriving at Napoli to visit Pompeii, we were greeted by Nello, our personal driver for the day. Nello knew how to play the Americans tourists but he was very delightful and full of Italian Neapolitan knowledge. He was a “pro”.  He drove us through the streets of Napoli to our destination of Pompeii. We were so disenchanted by Napoli, once a beautiful seaside city now filled with litter and congestion which was a huge disappointment for me since that is where the Lanzillis hail.  Bummer man, my family comes from a dump!! We had a scheduled tour of Pompeii, something on my bucket list but in T’s “dump” bucket. He was a trooper as we passed through streets of frozen history and dilapidated homes. He did seem to suddenly become interested when we entered the “medieval” brothel where there were graphic hand paintings that depicted your preference while visiting- supposedly because nobody spoke the same languages back then. If you chose graphic number 4, you could have it super sized! We left quickly after hearing that there was no plumbing back then and as a result, the streets were filled with a city’s worth of sewage while waiting for the rain waters to wash it away through the streets. Cross that one of the bucket list!



Soon we were with our friend Nello again as he dazzled us with information and scenery while driving us to our Amalfi destination. He joked often about how Italian guys like their wives (at home, cooking and cleaning) while they “love” their girlfriends! It got old very fast and as he looked in the rearview mirror glancing at my very annoyed face, he did tone it down a bit. I did want to smack him though.



Once arriving at Positano, we were left at the local drop off point as there are no cars able to go to the seaside hotels. We walked about ½ mile with part of our luggage, down many flights of steps to finally arrive at the tiny seaside community of Positano, the most charming village of the Amalfi Coast. Our hotel room was set on the beautiful Mediterranean and overlooked the whole village.



The first evening we had a romantic dinner at a seaside restaurant. T gazed into my eyes holding up his glass of wine with a sparkle in his eye that I haven’t seen in awhile. I leaned in and he whispered into my ear, “Do you want to change our seats to get closer to the TV so that we can watch the Giants vs Eagles game?” So off we went to the table closer to the TV only to learn that our Patriots freaking lost!!



The first day we walked the streets of the village that wind their way for miles up the side of the cliffs and mountains. Many small shops and restaurants are located throughout the streets, selling Italian pottery, jewelry and clothing. It is a very touristy location. In the afternoon, we decided to relax at the beach which we realized impossible after reaching our sitting destination. The Mediterranean beaches are filled will rocks and pebbles, lots of rocks and pebbles and it is impossible to walk into and out of the water without extreme pain. T was able to get into the water with his flat feet to swim and floated about while I went in only waist high, decided against it and got out to sit on the lumpy rocks to pretend I was having the time of my life. Luckily, the hotel has a rooftop pool and we left the rock infested beach for the comforts of poolside chairs.



As we entered the pool area, we heard someone say “Medford” and suddenly turned to see two couples enjoying cocktails by the pool. Of course I had to say, “What about Medford?” and we got to talking. Soon, we found out that they had meant Medford, NJ but the two wives were sisters who grew up in none other than North Andover. Yup, you got it folks, it’s a small world story (courtesy of our special friend, Frank MacDonald). Linda and Kathy, (we forget their very italian last name) grew up on Mifflin Dr, with 7 sisters and one brother. Linda works for Steve Kurkel who I saw right before leaving for Italy while trash picking his trash for a rug for Bubba’s dorm room. Steve told me that his office manager was going to Italy and I never gave it a second thought!! And there we were having a hum dinging time with the ole’ North Andoverites…we even emailed Steve to tell him that we met and we got the NFW as his response. 



Luigi, another driver picked us up the next day for an excursion to the towns of Amalfi and Ravello. Luigi was filling us with facts of local history which was a waste since his accent was so thick, we couldn’t understand a word he said. As he drove us through the narrow, cliff side road that is the only way in or out of the coastal towns, we saw the beauty and sights that the Amalfi coast boasts. But, once arriving at the town of Amalfi, we decided that we were not big fans. The small town sits just above the seacoast, but was extremely commercial and just plain congested. It wasn’t the small, quaint town that we have come to love in Italy. Ravello on the other hand was a quiet and charming mountain top town, looking down onto the sea.



After our drive with Luigi, we wanted some down time and proceeded upstairs to the pool. We received a call from a couple we met at Villa Poggione in Tuscana who were in Positano for the day and wanted to meet up. Denise and Mark were staying in Ravello and come from North Carolina-originally from Springfield Ma and a fellow UMie.



That evening, we not only had dinner but had an adventure that went with it.  We ventured to a seaside location a couple of coves away and the only way to get there was by boat that picked you up at the local dock. We were picked up at 7:30pm by Angelo, who was bare foot and near mute because he knew no English, so he just didn’t speak. After sun down darkness with no light, no life jackets and no idea of what we were in for, Tand I silently hummed the tune of Gilligan’s Island as we took off from the safety of Positano to the unknown. Angelo was an expert at driving in pitch darkness through many moored boats and buoys with his feet all while sitting on the rail of the boat. Rough and rolling seas were no match for Angelo’s bare foot skills but did rattle our nerves. Angelo soon landed the boat on a two plank dock-(that is lumber planks) to an isolated, picturesque hotel and restaurant location that was to be our dining experience for the evening. We were met by Roberto, our waiter who was very enthusiastic and attentive however he had the teeth of Jaws from James Bond and his body odor was pungent. Luckily, it was open aired dining.   Although this seemed like a mom and pop type of place, we had an excellent fresh, seafood dinner and met some lovely couples who were staying at the hotel. But, as we just received our espresso, the boat was preparing to take off with another couple returning to Positano, we yelled for Angelo to wait, paid the bill and scattered quickly home. The Ohio couple on the boat told us that they visited Amalfi often and visited this particular restaurant often as well. This year though, they made their fish selection from the display case while accompanied by the waitress who was conveniently breastfeeding her baby in between waiting the tables. Upon landing in Positano, we gratefully thanked Angelo for his expert driving (while texting on the way back) and walked through the beach area to digest. There we saw Kirstie Alley with her family eating dinner at the same place we had dinner the night before.



Our last day in the Amalfi Coast was spent at the Isle of Capri-basically a mountain with cliffs around its coast located a couple of miles from Positano. We took a ferry from Positano and once there, got on another boat that took us around the island to see its spectacular typography and grottos. One side of the island waters was extremely rough but we managed not to fall over board or to get wet-again no signs of life jackets or safety instructions.   The young captain easily maneuvered his 30 foot boat into a narrow grotto. It was amazing that he was able to keep the boat clear of the cave walls which were merely inches away on both sides. These Italians not only can drive cars but have amazing prowess for boating as well. Then we road the tram up to the top of the island and walked the streets where many famous people have walked before for we saw pictures of celeb’s visits in years past everywhere. Again, the streets were filled with your basic shops only a bit more upscaled than the Amalfi Coast…not as congested but not the glitz and glamour that we had presumed.  Amalfi, Capri, Positano- another check off the bucket list.



Tomorrow we are off to see our wonderful Sicilian cousins.

From our balcony in Positano, Amalfi coast

In the hills of Amalfi

This poor guy didn't make it out of Pompeii in time!

Pompeii

One of our "stoned" friends at the Villa Poggione where we stayed in Tuscana...he loves the Sox!

The Tuscana sunset...everynight!

At our cooking class in Tuscana, T whips up the filling for tiramasu and also made homemade pasta with his bare hands.!

We visited Castellini where the Chianti vineyards are. Luigi had us sampling the many chiantis that they make...from a "fiat" to a "lamborgini". SWEET! 

Montepulciano is a Tuscana town overlooking the rolling hills. Below is an abandoned farm house. Our villa was here.

Louis Armstrong…What a Wonderful World

Tuscana! Just the name evokes images of rolling hills painted shades of browns, yellows, oranges, greens and more. The sky is filled with colors of pinks, reds and purples and the mountains span the horizon in pure green all creating a patchwork of beauty-nature’s quilt.



On each hilltop you find a town surrounded by a medieval fortress and the homes are built on the slopes with charming door fronts and window boxes. Each town similar in many ways yet having a very distinctive flavor of its own. We visited Montepulciano, known for its very flavorful wines of Nobile and Brunello; both of which are hard to find in the States but we are going to look for them for sure. We traveled to Chuisi, Pienza, Radda, Gaiole, Castelini and many more small and picture perfect towns.



Castelini was a favorite of ours because in is the epicenter of Tuscana Chianti Wine. Located in northern Tuscany (the Chianti region), we noticed a difference in the topography right away. The mountains are filled with trees unlike the rolling hills of most of Tuscana. This area is rich with grapes that make the Chiantis that we both love so much. We found a wine shop/villa that makes Chianti Reserva and many other boutique Chiantis that we were able to taste and enjoy. We purchased several bottles but are unsure of how we will get them home as our bags are already overweight and overfilled. We discovered a new after dinner drink that we would love to share with Andrew…it will replace his Amaretto in a heartbeat!



 We also traveled to Siena where we were experienced its huge population, and rather dirty, commercial setting. It was very odd to see storefronts of Gucci and Versace conducting their business in the medieval setting. After seeing many of the smaller, charming and cleaner towns, we were somewhat disenchanted with Siena. There was a Cathedral there that was incredibly beautiful with marble details inside and out. We ate dinner in the square surrounded by churches and apartments that is transformed twice a year into a track for the “Paleao” race (horse race that packs in over 20 thousand local spectators) which was very difficult to imagine. Also, we were lucky enough to experience a parade of polo teams, riding their horses around the same square that reminded us of San Marco Piazza in Venezia.



The villa that we stayed was a beautiful old home transformed into a wonderful, comfortable abode for visitors. The vista from its perch was magnificent overlooking the rolling hills and far away towns. The Villa Poggione was family owned as their daughter Stefania was the keeper of the facilities. Stefania is a forty something, tall, beautiful, well educated, Italian, woman, unmarried and pretty much set in her ways. We knew there had to be a fault and learned what it was in due time. She was mostly very kind but there were times that she would snap and we wondered what would set her off. One evening we met other couples from Ohio, and California. They invited us to the sitting room for a night cap-to drink Grappa and Brandy supplied by the Villa and enjoy each other’s company. We managed to drink all of the Grappa and most of the Brandy and had a wonderful evening chatting with our new friends, who were departing the next morning.  Strike One. We had to ask Stefania to fix our room safe that wasn’t work correctly and she pretty much told me with her eyes that I was stupid. But she  soon realized that I was correct and the safe was not working properly because it needed a new battery…no apology though. Strike Two.



She did stay with us at our private cooking lesson which was fabulous! We learned to make homemade pasta and tomato sauce from fresh tomatoes, mushroom chicken, potato flan, chicken liver and tomato bruschetta and tiramisu. After, the chef served us the meal that we helped prepare. We ate outside overlooking the hills of Tuscana, with fine china, candlelight and all the vino that we could drink.  We shared the tiramisu with Chef, Asunta and Stefania. It was great! We will be making the pasta again for sure!



The last night was most interesting though as we met up with a couple from Fl (Mark and Patty) and another woman (Julie) from Texas. We celebrated Mark’s recent sale of his company and retirement (age 54) with the local vino, commencing at 6pm on a terrace overlooking the Tuscana sunset. We put out a spread of mortadella, proscuitto, cheese, bread, tomatoes, pizza and olive oil that we were saving for dinner and shared an evening eating, drinking and chatting with them until midnight. Another couple from Roma sat with us for a while as well but left before it got too crazy. At midnight, we shared the secret of the sitting room and after dinner drinks with the Mark and Patty. Suddenly, as we were about to settle in, a ghost like character came busting out of a secret  room from behind the sitting area scowling and scolding us for our behavior. Stefania told us to go to our rooms, we were too loud and rambunctious. Seriously, we felt like teenagers getting caught drinking and being sent to our rooms for bad behavior. Strike Three! She looked so much like Cruella DeVille from 101 Dalmatians-it was quite comical. We are good listeners and scurried to our rooms, jumping into bed and suddenly realizing what just happened. We had a good laugh and actually got an apology from her the next morning.  You can’t make this stuff up!



All said, Tuscana is a magical place, although we prefer the northern part of Tuscana, it is a beautiful, peaceful place and hopes of a return linger in our minds as we leave by train for the Amalfi Coast!

Torino. Castel Bianco and the Piemont Mountains.

The drive to Torino through the Piemonts Mountains showed us yet another part of Italy that was worth seeing. It was 3 hours of beautiful, green, lush, majestic mountains with small villages either perched on the top of the mountains or nestled in the valleys.

After visiting theTown of Castel Bianco,(one of the perched villages where the London chap from the wedding party in Portofino suggested), and enjoying the incredible views from vistas higher than we ever imagined, we stumbled upon a small village nestled in a valley called Garessio, hoping to find a place for a quick lunch. This town was as authentic as you get and it was here that we experienced the real “Italian” culture. We found the only café in the village where we struggled as we tried to request food since there wasn’t really a menu. There were 3 very personable women there who were excited to speak to us with the limited English that they spoke. It didn’t seem that they have many visitors from other countries. The mayor was there as seen in the picture posted on the blog. He sat there and enjoyed the interaction between us and the women. It was extremely enjoyable until the “town drunk” stumbled into the café for his afternoon glass of vino and all of a sudden, the women scattered like rats. The mayor was gone as well. One distinguished resident stayed and pulled the annoying man away from us and proceeded to scold him-we thought there might be an altercation between the two but it turned out to be just emphatic italian expression! We proceeded on our journey but were so grateful to have found this wonderful village and the warm, friendly people who lived there (including the drunk).



Once we were through the beautiful Piemont Mountains and descended upon Torino, we saw the amazing Alps surrounding the city. The Alps seemed like a natural border for the city (much like Denver and the Rockies) and the snow seemed to be plentiful on many of the peaks. Torino, much like Boston, had a beautiful river running through the center with rowing clubs lining the embankment, many business men and women bustling through the streets, and the buildings were old with many modern details. Statues and monuments were appropriately situated along the streets and throughout the city as well. Torino is a vibrant, commercial city.



The Piemont Mountains, and the glimpse of the Alps gave us a totally different perspective of Italy’s northeastern area. Beautiful and very scenic, much like Vermont, Maine and New Hampshire.

Cinque Terre-5 experiences and a small world after all.

After a quick breakfast, we set out for our journey to Cinque Terre, a series of 5 beautiful old towns lining the crystal blue Mediterranean Sea, not the ocean as T likes to say. We were aware that you are able to walk the 8 mile path that joined all 5 towns but didn’t quite realize that it was a treacherous hike! (side note: Raimos, not recommended) After eagerly beginning our day at Monterosso, two long, arduous hours later of hiking and climbing broken and uneven trail steps and descending unguarded cliff side paths spanning a foot and half, we realized that the possibility of walking to all five towns was a bit too ambitious. We wondered aloud why there weren’t fallen victims on the trails particularly after the seemingly endless climbs of 50 steps or more. Yet, once on the level path, the views of the Mediterranean were breathtaking!



 On the path to the first town, Vernazza, we met a great couple from Montana just married 2 years.  We told them of our celebration and they shared with us that this was the 2^nd marriage for both after losing their spouses to cancer in their 50’s.  In their previous marriages, the two couples were best friends for many years and the children welcomed the marriage with open arms.  Ernie’s daughter graduated from Tufts and insisted on a picture with T in his Tufts Jumbo shirt to show to her. He was very excited.



We reached Veranazza and were amazed by its beauty and uniqueness. The homes and businesses of this small community were built vertically into the ledges of the hills, precariously hanging over the Mediterranean. Each of the weathered, stucco structures were painted shades of faded pastel colors while lines of drying laundry (including boodandies) were strung from window to window. The smells of the finest Italian cooking wafted through ally ways that made the Boston’s North End streets look like freeways. This is a walking town. The cove was filled with old fishing boats and well placed cafes to enjoy the waterfront.



We boarded the commuter train to travel to the remaining three towns. The ferry that we were planning to take was not running because of rough seas. We arrived at Riomaggiore, the last town and walked up through the center (another huge incline, thank you very much).The views from the top were spectacular! While waiting for the train to the next town Manarola, we met a couple from Atlanta who encouraged us to walk the “Lover’s Walk” to Manarolo so off we went. Along the way, we saw many PADLOCKS that are symbolic of lasting love. We were so thankful that we ran into the Altantans because this walk was paved and so incredibly scenic that we would have been very disappointed to have missed it. Manarola was the 4^th town, very small and not as touristy as the others.



Cornelia was the 3^rd town and the last we visited. I was insistent on going there because it was my grandma Connie’s namesake. Once we arrived, we were greeted by a 384 step climb to enter into the town.



All the towns shared similar structures but each had their own individual characteristics and tourist appeal. However each of the 5 towns did share one common feature in that the main road lead through the center and accessed the sea for both boats and swimmers.



As night drew near, we returned to dine in Vernazza since it was our favorite town. We choose a restaurant with a table just feet from the sea and enjoyed a delectable gnocchi pesto dish with cold beer and fine wine. As we prepared to leave, we were met by a shout of, “hey, are you from Boston” from a very enthusiastic couple from Southie. Amy and Mark were another young couple celebrating their engagement (now I’m really thinking-“what the hell did I do wrong?”) We spent the rest of the evening eating, drinking and laughing with them. Mark was Manny Ramirez’s former personal cook and does all sorts of fun “chef like” activities, so we have a chef available for our next house party! Mark was a typical Southie character (except for his Italian ancestory), full of fun, lots of conversation and just like a buddy you’ve known since childhood. 



The encounter with Amy and Mark set our departure time back quite a bit which in turn made our travel back to our hotel a little tricky. We had an hours drive on a Disney like ride through windy, unlighted mountain roads and then onto the exciting “AUTOSTRADA”-YIKES! Traveling on the Autostrada at 100 miles an hour, going through many tunnels through the mountains and suddenly coming upon a man in a reflector suite with a glow in the dark ward waving us over to the other lane because of highway workers in the road was as bit unsettling, but we managed to make it without hitting them even thought we encountering it 3-4 times in as many tunnels. We can’t imagine there is much longevity in that profession! No state trooper details here! Long day….

Torini reminded us alot of Boston. It is a beautiful city filled with fashionable people and crew!

I am with the Mayor and ladies of Gerasso. It was so wonderful hanging out with them.

Driving through the Piemont Mountains toward Torino. This picture does not capture the true beauty.

Manarola-the 4th town in Cinque Terre

Dolce Vita

Vernazza-from one of the rest stops on the hike from Monterosso.The town is literally built into the side of the mountain.

One of the many inclines on the hike from Monterosso to Vernazza...the first two towns of Cinque Terre

Beautiful Portofine from a hike up to a Castle.

Italians are very free with expression!

The driving in Italy is outrageous!



Part of Portofino

The Diamond Studded Bra in Portofino

From our hotel window in Santa Margarita

Who knew Andrew was here in Italy!!!

Portofino-Heaven on Earth

We were excited to see Portofino because of a hotel that we stayed in Universal Studios Florida years ago with the kids. The hotel was named...Portofino Hotel and it felt like we were staying in a small italian village. We were told that Steven Spielberg designed the hotel after his favorite place in Italy-Portofino and the kids seemed like they wanted to stay at the hotel rather than go to the park!



Portofino, Italy was a picturesque hour walk from our hotel along the fabulous seacoast lined by villas. If you ask T, he'll say it was 2 hours, the big goof! As you enter into the small cove of the town of Portofino, you immediately see a fishing village that has been transformed into a hideaway for the rich and famous although we didn't see any famous people there, just lots of huge yachts, bigger boobies and Versace and Gucci everywhere. The was a diamond studded bra in the window of a local jewelry store that was very tempting to buy but actually made us think of some dear friends…Den, Cindy and Palloooootts, no heaving that bra in the firepit! We were so dazzled by the scenic views all around us-it left us no time for smoozing with the rich and famous and big boobed.



As we hiked around an old castle in the hills of Portofino, we met Jaime, a new bride with her South African husband (so cute) and their 30 family and friends apparently celebrating their wedding in Italy (what did I do wrong?!) Jaime introduced us to her mother after hearing we were from North Andover as her mom grew up and still lives in  Lawrence. We had much fun chatting with them and of course, they were so incredulous about us celebrating our 25^th wedding anniversary because of our youthful appearance and ways! Who knew?? Among her friends was a chap from London who encouraged us to travel to the Piemont Montains (where Torino is) and where he vacationed for the last 10 years in a home he owned. He was so convincing that we plan on visiting on Tuesday. We’ll share that experience later.



As the day grew long, we longed for a taste of good, ole vino and sat comfortably among the rich and famous while slurping and nibbling on cheese and proscuitto. A couple from LA sitting behind us asked for the time which lead to a late afternoon discussion on our travels. Apparently, they had just been engaged while traveling the wonderful parts of Italy for 2 weeks. (again - what did I do wrong?) The young man was a 2001 graduate of USC Film school! WHOA!! Of course, I spilled on my sons, AJ in particular since they share the Trojan bond and we talked for awhile on working in the industry, etc. He gave us many thoughts on jobs and persistence. He is obviously doing very well as an independent cinematographer. I got his name to pass along to AJ and Bubs while he said that he’ll never forget the name Serrano Bros Productions as he loves serrano peppers and because of my unabashed promotion my future film makers.



As the night fell upon us, we realized that we couldn’t walk back for risking our lives on the narrow, winding roads while cars whiz along without a care. Since the water shuttle was canceled due to rough seas, the local “autobus” was a great alternative and we watched amusingly as the bus driver tried to maneuver his way around the precarious hairpin turns without scrapping the small Renaults or mutilating the scooter drivers going by on the other side.



Portofino is a place that we would recommend very highly for all to visit. It’s wonderfully colorful homes and quaint, charming cove is a romantic, respite that will never be forgotten.

Santa Margarita

Santa Margarita is a wonderful, quaint, waterfront, touristy community where the wealthy Milanians (?) vacation on weekends. It is filled with cafes, restaurants, yacht brokers and lots of fake boobies! Our hotel is located at one end of the strip on a beach community and the weather has been terrific other than the one morning of "raining sideways". In fact, the storm included some very intense thunder and lighting. I swear that the thunder actually had an inflection at the end of each rumble-kind of like an accent. It is a fantastic spot!

Moving traveling.....

Once we finally got to Genoa (on the sea and really cool city-like Roma but not dirty at all) on a very, very old Alitalia plane (we're talking the 60's here), we were able to get some rest and go out on the town of Santa Margarita...WOW! just so beautiful and quaint. Of course, we just picked anywhere to eat and it was fantastic.

The Arrival

Well my dear friends, we made it to Rome with only a few minor glitches. First of all, our first class seats were not first class after all and poor T's knees were massaging the person's back sitting directly in front of him. US Airways felt so bad that they screwed up and they gave a two free bottles of water, two free headseats and a bottle of wine to take with us-that by the way, we had to give up at the Rome Airport when going through security for our next flight.

If that wasn't bad enough, T accidently spilled a whole glass of deep, dark, red wine all over my pants- both the front and back. I had on light gray pants that I am still wearing at this very moment as we wait for our connecting flight to Genoa! We didn't sleep at all so we are like walking zoobies...but we will bounce back once we get to our destination~Cinque Terra!!!  Yippee!! 

We'll take pictures.  Wish everyone of you were here with us. Love to all. Over and out-----Renee

Also...

Be sure to check out http://actuallyitsashleigh.blogspot.com/

And We're Off..

Hi everyone-- Ashleigh here. My parents (read, my mother) asked me to set up a blog so they can share pictures, stories and information about where they are in the beautiful country of  Italy. As a family, we have been to Italy before but with the two of them going to celebrate their 50th birthdays as well as their 25th wedding anniversary, I think they are going to have more time to wander and explore the backroads of Italy. Last time we went, we went to all the tourist attractions and it was basically a two week long history lesson, but now they will be truly emerged in Italian culture. 

My hope is that they will share pictures with us through this blog. I don't mind if they do not have time to write much... a picture says a thousand words, right? Although it will be a mild form of torture, I hope they will share pictures of scenery, food, people, and WINE! They will be traveling to Cinque Terre, a vineyard in Tuscany, the Almafi coast, and Sicily as well as a few other places. There will be so much to see and I hope that through this blog they will share some of their adventures with us! So check back in every once and a while and I hope you enjoy the Serrano Italian Invasion! 

Sicily

Tuscany

Cinque Terre

Almafi Coast

Are you as envious that they get to go to all these beautiful places as I am?!